CUBA

Evocative and beguiling, the last decade has seen Cuba slough off its outdated image of a country isolated from the Western world to become the jewel of the Caribbean. Communist credentials notwithstanding, Cuba well understands the commercial power of rebranding and has reinvented itself as the home of sun, salsa and rum with chutzpah and an apparent insouciance which are intrinsic to the country.

Shaped by one of the twentieth century's longest-surviving revolutions, until recently Cuba's image had been inextricably bound up with its politics, rather than its long satiny beaches, offshore cays and jungle-covered peaks. Now, the country is changing and Cuba today is characterized as much as anything by a frenetic sense of transition as it shifts from socialist stronghold to one of the Caribbean's major tourist destinations, running on capitalist dollars.

Yet at the same time, it can seem to visitors that nothing has changed here for decades, even centuries: the classic American cars, moustachioed cigar-smoking farmers, horse-drawn carriages and colonial Spanish architecture have apparently all been unaffected by the breakneck pace of modernization. Newly erected department stores and shopping malls, state-of-the-art hotels and resorts are the hallmarks of this new, emerging Cuba. This improbable combination of transformation and stasis is symbolic of a country riddled with contradictions and ironies. In a place where taxi drivers earn more than doctors, and where capitalist reforms are seen as the answer to preserving socialist ideals, understanding Cuba is a compelling but never-ending task.

Despite favouritism toward tourists and the crippling US trade embargo, there is surprisingly little resentment directed at foreign visitors. In most of the country it's easy to come into contact with the locals: the common practice of renting out rooms and opening restaurants in homes allows visitors strong impressions of Cuba and its people even in a short visit. It's a good thing, too, since Cubans are renowned for their love of a good time. Their energy and spirit are best expressed through music and dance, both vital facets of the island's culture. As originators of the most influential Latin music styles, such as bolero, rumba and son, which spawned the most famous of them all – salsa – people in Cuba seem always ready to party.

There are occasional reminders that Cuba is a highly bureaucratic one-party state. Going to the police, finding your hotel room double-booked or simply needing to make an urgent phone call can prove to be frustratingly complicated. As such, having a certain determination and a laid-back attitude are essential requirements for a pleasant trip to Cuba, particularly when exploring less visited parts of the country. Things are becoming easier all the time, though, with the introduction of a wider variety of more efficient services; unfortunately these improvements also mark an irreversible move away from what makes Cuba unique.

Where to go
No trip to Cuba would be complete without a visit to the capital city, Havana, whose
time-warped colonial core, Habana Vieja, is crammed with architectural splendours dating back to the sixteenth century. West of the capital, Pinar del Río is the best area for getting close to nature. The resorts best suited for hiking are Las Terrazas and Soroa, but it's the peculiar mogote hills, which look more like gargantuan boulders than hills, of prehistoric Viñales valley that attract the most attention.

The country's premier holiday destination and beach resort is Varadero, two hours' drive east of Havana, while on the opposite side of the province, the Península de Zapata boasts a potent mix of beaches, wildlife excursions and other attractions. Further east, Trinidad, a small colonial city, lures coach parties and backpackers in equal numbers. However, the most popular destinations in this central part of the country are the luxurious resorts of Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo. Beach-goers also won't want to miss Guardalavaca, on the northern coast of Holguín province, where there are ample opportunities for watersports.

While Guantánamo province, forming the far eastern tip of the island, is best known for its infamous US naval base, it is the jaunty seaside town of Baracoa that is the region's most enchanting spot. The country's most vibrant and energetic city after Havana is Santiago de Cuba, on the island's southeast coast, which, like the capital, has a lively historic centre. Trekkers and revolution enthusiasts will want to follow the Sierra Maestra as it snakes west of here into Granma province, offering various revolutionary landmarks and nature trails. Finally, lying off the southwest coast of Havana province, luxurious and anodyne Cayo Largo is the only sizeable beach resort off the southern coastline of Cuba.

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